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[40] Short (high-waisted) jackets called spencers [39] were worn outdoors, along with long-hooded cloaks, Turkish wraps, mantles, capes, Roman tunics, chemisettes, and overcoats called pelisses [41] (which were often sleeveless and reached down as far as the ankles)

Chanels keen eye for simplistic elegance soon brought her recognition from the rich and famous, with trendsetting French actress Gabrielle Dorziat wearing her designs and causing a sensation amongst Paris elite

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Most off-the-rack and sample gowns need at least a hem and a bustle, and many need bodice or strap work too

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